The magazine

Stories from Skopje, North Macedonia

Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Skopje City Guide, in one place.

Day trips

North Macedonia on your doorstep

From Skopje, the canyon of Matka, the mountains of Mavrovo, the churches of Lake Ohrid, the mosaics of Heraclea and the vineyards of Tikveš are all within reach.

The Church of St John at Kaneo above Lake OhridLake guideLake Ohrid & St NaumA UNESCO lakeThe beach at Dhërmi below the Ceraunian Mountains, seen from the seaSummer journeyLake Ohrid to the RivieraKaneo, Ohrid pearls, Llogara and DhërmiA boat on the lake in Matka CanyonNature guideMatka CanyonThirty minutes awaySki lifts above Lake MavrovoMountains guideMavrovoSkiing and a drowned churchThe submerged church of St Nicholas in Lake MavrovoULTIMATE Ski ResortsBalkan snowMavrovo, Kopaonik and Sarajevo’s Olympic mountains

History

History & heritage

How Roman Scupi, a medieval royal city and five centuries of Ottoman bazaar life shaped Skopje, and how the world helped rebuild it after the 1963 earthquake.

The Stone Bridge over the Vardar in SkopjeHistory & heritageFrom Scupi to Kenzo Tange: how Skopje became a capital on the VardarScupi, the Old Bazaar and the city rebuilt after 1963Skopje and the Vardar seen from Kale fortressThe back storySkopjeFew capitals change so much in the length of one…A lane of low shops in the Old BazaarThe back storyThe Old BazaarThe čaršija has been Skopje’s marketplace for more than five hundred…

Our advice

The bazaar in the morning

Come to the Old Bazaar in the morning to watch the craftsmen at work, have lunch at a kebapi grill, and return in the evening for a drink. The Old Bazaar

The Balkans, with love

From tavče gravče to the lanes of the Old Bazaar and the shores of Lake Ohrid: the life Skopje shares with the whole region.

Café terraces on Veliki trg in old Zemun, Belgrade, under the tower of the Church of the AssumptionThe regionThe Balkans, with loveCafés, markets, the table and the welcomeKotor’s old town and the bay from the fortress walls, MontenegroThe long readThe Balkan SoulCafés, markets, the table and the wildGrilled ćevapi with fries and kajmakThe regionFood & Drink in the BalkansThe shared table, guide by guide
  1. The regionSeasons & Festivals in the BalkansFrom the Ohrid Summer Festival to Christmas

Our advice

The Macedonian table

Order tavče gravče and a šopska salad at least once, have burek and yoghurt for breakfast, and spend one long evening in a Debar Maalo kafana with a bottle of Vranec. The Macedonian table

In depth

Skopje’s stories

A Roman colony, an Ottoman bazaar, the earthquake of 1963 and Kenzo Tange’s plan, Mother Teresa, and the food and wine of Macedonia.

Deep snow and pines on Mount Vodno above Skopje at sunsetVodiciChristmas in SkopjeTwo Christmases, and the cross thrown into the VardarThe river winding through Matka Canyon below steep forested cliffsIn depth: nature & wildlifeWild SkopjeMatka Canyon and Mount VodnoThe Stone Bridge and the Archaeological Museum on the VardarThe back story5:17, 26 July 1963The earthquake and Tange

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